Confused About Which HERO4 To Buy?
Just to continue that shake up feeling we’re not going to discuss the models in the usual descending order, and we’re not going to go into the specifications in intricate detail. The point of this article is to help you make the decision on which model to buy. To do this we’ve gone through reviews from the Top Internet Reviewers, and looked at buyers reviews and reactions since the product went on sale.
For the people thinking:
“Ah! I’m even more confused. Now we have two HERO4 models, a HERO3+ model, a HERO3 model, and a HERO which should be a GoPro HERO4…but it’s not.”
Relax! it has complicated things a little, but the HERO3+ Silver and the HERO3 White are between the HERO4 SILVER and the new HERO entry level. This means that the cameras haven’t been directly superseded by the new HERO4 (as is usually the case) and we’ll discuss that in separate article.
GoPro themselves have always been able to play the high specification card, but with the capacity of the cameras currently moving faster than the market for viewing such high resolution material it would make sense to focus on the best (read: most realistic) specification for the mainstream user. For now that seems to be the GoPro 4 SILVER.
What Does The HERO4 SILVER Have To Offer Me?
With everything the old GoPro HERO3+ Black edition had, plus the addition of a new integrated touchscreen, the HERO4 SILVER has possibly become the new market leader, at least for users looking for a top class specification and maximum user-friendliness. The introduction of the screen has given it two major advantages:
- It addresses one of the main limitations with action cameras, which is not being able to easily check your field of vision until after the event.
- It allows better handling of the menu navigation, which was always a little frustrating even before the introduction of an ever-increasing list of camera settings.
The screen alone sets it apart, and when you consider the 20% lower price tag for theGoPro HERO4 SILVER compared to the current price for theGoPro HERO4 BLACK it makes it even more tempting.
But what of you’re on the fence between the GoPro HERO4 SILVER and the GoPro HERO4 BLACK…
Why Should I Consider Paying More For The HERO4 BLACK?
The one thing that may sway your decision on whether to plump for the BLACK is the 120 FPS (Frames Per Second) available at 1080p. For lovers of slow motion this can be seen as a real bonus, and it’s likely to be used more often than the higher resolutions of 2.7K and 4K.
For people who decide to stay with the SILVER, 60 FPS at 1080 p is still a very respectable option, and based on your own post-production ability it can still produce excellent results.
Is A Touchscreen Good Enough Reason For Me To Buy The GoPro HERO4 SILVER Over The GoPro HERO?
Realistically the two cameras aren’t comparable. The new GoPro HERO offers an entry-level alternative at a great price for people wanting to get into the sports camera market on a low budget.
If you were to consider a different GoPro to the HERO4 SILVER you should be looking at the 3+, not the new HERO.
OK I’ve Decided I Want A GoPro HERO4. Which One Do I Buy?
To recap, we’re not drawing parallels with other sports cameras. This is just for people who have already decided on GoPro. Check out one of our other articles if you still need to make the decision “Which action camera?” and not “Which GoPro?”.
Start by asking yourself the following questions.
- Do I have 4K monitor to fully enjoy the finished video?
- Do I have a computer with the processing power and hard drive capacity to handle 4K postproduction?
- Do I have editing software that can handle 4K?
If the answer is “yes” to all of the STEP 1 questions, and you can put the time into getting the best out of 4K footage, then you can certainly consider a GoPro 4 Black.
If the answer is “no” to any of those questions, then consider whether you want to make that investment or it’s better to leave the GoPro HERO4 BLACKalone.
- Am I still into video but don’t have all the hardware and software required to really get the most out of 4K?
- Am I into my sport/activity and love re-living the best moments?
- Have I got a bit of extra cash and would really like to experiment with all the different options that a more advanced camera offers?
If the answer is “yes” to STEP 2 questions, then the GoPro HERO4 SILVER is properly worth the extra money for you.
NOTE: If you fall somewhere in between STEP2 and the next STEP 3 then you may want to look for the GoPro HERO3+ Silver Edition or the GoPro HERO3 White Edition which are selling for really at competitive prices on Amazon right now.
- Do I want a camera that I can throw around and dropping the swimming pool with friends and family without worrying about getting damaged?
- It’s just a fun on a small budget?
The new HERO is one for you.
If you were wondering when all the cameras were introduced you can find information on each GoPro update in this article
For more information check out the articles below from some of the Top Internet Reviewers.
The 2014 GoPro’s In-Depth Review – DC Rainmaker
http://www.dcrainmaker.com/ Wed, 12 Nov 2014 21:45:00 -0800
The camera itself (duh) – The battery for the camera – A mini-USB cable – An underwater case rated to 40m/131ft – An alternate/secondary door for the case that allows for better audio – A small stack of GoPro stickers – A small quick-start guide and other paper junk – A flat adhesive mount – A curved adhesive ….. But, when it comes to playback, it might be played back at 30FPS, which then results in that one-second moment of action taking 4 seconds to play back.
Read more …
Review: GoPro Hero 4 Black brings high frame rates to high …
http://appleinsider.com/ Mon, 27 Oct 2014 10:09:18 -0700
Finally, the Hero 4 Black, GoPro’s flagship and the camera under review, carries over the same small form factor for which the company is known, but doubles high-resolution frame rates to 120fps for 1080p and 30fps for 4K.
Read more …
When it comes to GoPro’s new Hero4 camera, silver is the …
http://www.engadget.com/ Wed, 19 Nov 2014 07:00:00 -0800
Recently though, GoPro changed things up a bit, releasing a new “Hero” entry-level camera (note, no “4”) while introducing the Hero4 in Silver and Black editions ($400 and $500, respectively). Another first was that the Black wasn’t just the Silver with a few more features or camera modes. The Silver …. Get better reviews from people who actually have this product! write a reviewsee all reviews →. No one has started a discussion about this product yet. Why not be the …
Read more …
GoPro Hero4 Silver review | Digital Trends
http://www.ecoustics.com/ Sat, 01 Nov 2014 22:00:14 -0700
If you choose 1080, you get the option of something called SuperView. This feature lets you capture a bit more of the sky and ground by taking a 4:3 aspect ratio shot and, as GoPro puts it, “dynamically stretching” it to a 16:9 …
Read more …
GoPro Battery Charging
If possible, charging the batteries off the camera rather than by USB is preferable. Completely flattening the GoPro battery before recharge is good practice and will not only improve battery performance when using the camera, it will also increase the overall length of the batteries life. If not using an official charger be sure to check the voltage and current ratings of aftermarket chargers, as the charging rates will affect battery life.
With so much going on in such a small box, the battery life of the Hero 3 is probably one of its weakest points. All the high resolutions and frame rates require a high amount of processing power, whilst the reduction in size compared to the Hero 2 means that the battery capacity has actually decreased. Increases in technology are undoubtedly enhancing the possibilities of reducing overall camera size; however coupling battery technology with the pace of camera technology has always been difficult for manufacturers. On top of the optical technology, there is also now the Wi-Fi built-in as opposed to the original Wi-Fi backpack, which had its own battery source.
Maximizing battery life is always easier if you have a better understanding of the equipment and the different functional modes of your GoPro. Because of this standby mode is probably the best one to understand.
GoPro Battery life in standby mode can be up to 6 hours. The standby mode starts after the camera has been idle for 5 minutes in any state other than recording. Once in standby there is no apparent difference on the screen, however a delay of about 1 second is noticeable if you press the record button. Bear this in mind if you’re standing waiting to film or a photo of somebody passing as you may miss the moment you’ve been waiting for… by about 1 second. People having used the HD Hero 2 will know that there is a time setting for the standby mode, but this is not yet the case for the Hero 3. So despite the comfort of knowing that if you forget the camera will always turn itself off, during a day those 5 minutes each time can easily add up to half an hour or more of use so be aware.
GoPro Battery Life With Wi-Fi
Wi-Fi ON and the APP: Reduction in battery life of up to 20%.
Wi-Fi ON and the Remote: Reduction in battery life of up to 10%.
With the Wi-Fi switched on for use with the APP the camera generates its own wireless hotspot, so it has to do this on top of all the normal camera operation. Twenty % is a fair amount so it is worth considering how long you are going to be using it for and whether it is easier to push the button on the camera rather than the button on your phone. This could really be more dependent on where the camera is positioned.
The time limit seems to stand-up better using the remote, but really without fully understanding the different protocols GoPro use we do not have a technical reason but it is certainly a good thing to know if using the phone APP is one of your habits. A suggestion would be to use the phone APP to ensure that the camera is framed correctly and then take over with the remote, or just click off the Wi-Fi if you need to get a full day’s use out of the camera. For those who do not know, holding down the Wi-Fi button until the blue light has blinked seven times, confirms that the Wi-Fi is off.
Using a higher frame rate (fps) has quite a large effect on battery life, as do the higher resolutions due to amount of processing required to transfer everything to the SD card. The intensity of the processing can also be noticed by the length of time the camera takes to become ready for action again after recording has been stopped. This is down to the transfer time.
If you want to know more about Lithium batteries used in portable devices, try this article.
Choosing the correct GoPro settings is what makes the difference between success and failure.
Part 1 of this article will help you choose “GoTo” settings that you can rely on whenever you pull out your GoPro, and explain why they are suitable. It’s always better to start from something that you know and understand before exploring all the many features and settings that your camera has to offer. Get the choice of these three nailed and then start playing with other options when you have some time to spare.
Part 2 briefly covers several other settings that are worth checking out.
If at the end of the article you decide that you would like to explore settings in more depth, you can either grab our Free pdf explaining Resolution, Field Of View and Frames Per Second, or you can get a copy of our recommended resource the Project GoPro eBook which covers a variety of GoPro skills in greater depth.
GoPro Settings Part 1: Find A “GoTo”
Probably the most versatile setting you can choose.
- High quality image.
- Angle that’s wide enough give excellent peripheral vision, even close up.
- Frame rate that will give the option of producing reasonable slow-motion if the mood takes you during editing.
At 1080p this provides the best HD quality that the major of screen manufacturer systematically support at a reasonable price, and with the least hassle. Why the least hassle? 2.7K and 4K are without doubt major break-throughs, but they come at a price. At 1080p, and with 60 frames per second, you’re already going to start capturing a large amount of data. That data has to be transformed and stored very rapidly; at this setting everything should cope well both during filming, and as importantly during editing. The high setting will start to complicate things, especially if your editing equipment has limited resources.
If your GoPro has a habit of switching OFF when recording on this setting either make sure the Protune is switched OFF, change the frame rate to 30fps, or use the setting below.
Great for giving a more focused, enclosed feeling. Sometimes having a Wide angle can take the edge of your film; literally(*).
Use this setting if:
- Posting the video on social media. It’s ideal, and few people will notice a difference in quality.
- You know that Slow Motion will be imperative when editing. This will give you loads of scope without having to regenerate frames to fill gaps during post production. Remember to check that your software can import at this frame rate.
- You need the film to have a more focused, or faster feel, reducing the Field Of View can help (you can also try this at 1080p). Focal points such a Speedometer on a motorcycle will appear to take up real estate on the screen, and passing objects will appear to close in and pass more rapidly.
Reducing the Field Of View in the GoPro settings also reduces the amount of data being transformed, hence reducing the risk of the camera blocking and heating, without affecting picture quality.
(*)The Wide angle occasionally creates warping or ‘aliasing’ around the edges of the image. This isn’t the classic goldfish bowl optics of a ActionSports camera; this is a technical issue concerning data transfer, where the rate of information becomes too high and the camera process starts throwing away bits of information to keep up with pace.
This GoPro setting produces a nice clean “classic” feel with exceptional quality. You may feel the need to do some dynamic stretching during editing, or you may find you can reframe to suit proportions, but the quality should stand up to it. There’s no real need to do this, and the lack of aliasing with this setting makes for a very crisp video.
If you do decide that you really want a masterclass on GoPro Settings we recommend the ProjectGoPro eBook that will cover everything you need in detail.
GoPro Settings Part 2: Others Things You Should Check
SD card: before you start
- Always format the SD card in the camera before doing anything.
- The FORMAT option is found under the “delete” menu. This is logical for an Engineer, who would format the card after downloading and deleting the files from the camera. Many camera users have an inbred fear of delete buttons, or may have deleted directly from the computer, so the Delete menu may not be the natural choice searching for a formatting command.
- When moving files from the camera to a computer, take the SD card out and place it in a card reader rather than transfer by USB.
See Explaining SD Cards And Classes to avoid the pitfalls that some manufacturers lure you into…
For a FULL LIST of resolution setting and their attributes check out the GoPro Picture Quality.
What Do The GoPro Settings For PAL and NTSC Mean?
To set your camera this depends on your region. For the States it’s NTSC, and most Europeans have PAL. There are regions with SECAM and MESECAM, but if you are in doubt check.
The obvious differences that you will see are in the frame rates when setting your filming mode. NTSC works in multiples of 30, whilst PAL has multiples of 25. This is to take into account the difference in power standards between America (60 Hz) and Europe (50 Hz). To give a more visual example, anyone who has landed at night in a plane may have noticed that the lights below on the main roads appear to ripple of flicker; this is the effect of the electricity cycling over a distance. Choose the wrong settings in your editing software and you may get the same type of flicker.
GoPro Settings For Photos
Leave it on 12 MP wide. After transferring to your computer, you can crop, zoom, or re-frame during post-production. The GoPro effectively just scales the frame size down by cropping internally, so you may as well do this yourself and have the choice of re-positioning the frame as you want it. Unless you are looking to squeeze in more photos on your SD card then there is no real reason to change mode.
During the day: Put it on auto and it will give your footage a consistent look. If you think the colors look flat and the picture not very sharp when you look at the film, that’s good, that’s what it’s meant to do, don’t be alarmed. In reality, things are not extra sharp and colors are not over vibrant; most consumer cameras add this digitally. Professional ones spend their time gathering as much information as possible allowing the editor to make better color correction and sharpness during post-production.
At night: Switch it off. It creates ‘noise’ and that ruins the extra detail you’re getting.
Simultaneous video and photo
There are two ways of capturing photos whilst recording video; either pressing the power/mode button at any time during video recording, or setting the camera to take a photo every 5, 10, 30, or 60 seconds during video recording.
The photos will match the aspect ratio in whatever mode you are filming at the time. The results will not be the same quality as a 12 MP photo but they will be as good as high-resolution video screen grab, so depending on intended use afterwards (photo on the wall, or photo in a video) you may want to think about which mode to use; a specific photo mode will be better if you’re intending to hang it in the office.
Changing the GoPro settings to loop video footage.
What’s that I hear you say! I can change GoPro settings to use it like a security camera; if you plug the camera into a power source and leave it running you can set the time so that you always have the last ‘X’ number of minutes that you filmed. The only difference being that a security camera would do this for 24 or 48 hours and your GoPro will do this for 10, 20, 30 minutes, etc.
If you’d rather just watch some video to get you rolling, try this:
Need a masterclass on GoPro Settings? We recommend the ProjectGoPro eBook that will cover everything you need in detail.
Follow the link if you would like to find out more about different GoPro settings and models.
Symptoms Related to GoPro Overheating
- GoPro hot to the touch, raising concern for it’s welfare.
- GoPro switching off and feels hot.
- GoPro temperature icon showing on screen.
Most Successful Actions.
- Check if there is an Over-Temperature indicator on the screen.
- Do some testing at home to see whether the problem is environmental or camera based.
- Check battery pack to see if the fit and connections are snug. Especially Aftermarket products.
- What settings are you running? If you’re using one of the higher resolutions, maybe the data transfer rate is making the work harder.
- Is the WiFi running, and if so are you using it/do you really need to use it?
- Try fitting the skeleton door if you don’t really need full protection.
If you do decide that you really want a masterclass on GoPro Settings we recommend the ProjectGoPro eBook that will cover everything you need in detail.
Hero 3’s run pretty hot; we can’t yet comment for the 3+. Having squeezed the size down and put even more pressure on the battery (which is often the source of the heat), there are no real surprises. So what are your options if this is a concern for you?
Before doing a little analysis, be clear that this subject is discussed in the manual so it is a known issue under certain conditions and the camera has a mechanism to deal with it. So does it concern you because you don’t want your head to catch fire, or do you believe it to be the root of a bigger problem?
Just concerned because it feels damn hot? Normally there is a temperature indicator that will flash if the camera is beginning to over-heat. If you see this it’s probably time to switch it off for a while; and not just left on standby….completely off. On standby it’s still consuming, and if it’s consuming it’s heating.
Did the camera shut itself down, and it felt hot when you checked out what was happening? Maybe you should run a dry test and leave it running on the bar whilst you survey the LCD display. Find out if it’s just shutting off or you’re getting an overheat indicator before it switches off. If you didn’t see the indicator then you maybe you’re reading too much into the fact that it was hot and you should look elsewhere…try software level or card problems.
What conditions are you using it in? Out on the beach with a full waterproof housing, or in sub-zero on the north face of the Eiger? Clearly climate and enclosure are going to have an impact and, without stating the obvious, leaving it on the beach in full sunlight isn’t going to help. Try keeping it in the cool bag with your drinks when you’re not using it, and if you’re not surfing the pipe for 1h30 solid, give it a rest between runs.
If you’re in the snow, bury it for five minutes.
More seriously, aside from GoPro Lab’s possible issues, have you bought any aftermarket batteries or chargers. The standard battery already has a big job on, and we see that search results throw up cheaper batteries that have a higher mAH. It would be foolish of us to say any given battery is a good or bad choice without knowing fabrication details, but in the wider scheme, different maximum mAH and different charging currents can give similar batteries different output capacity curves. Some suppliers/manufacturers will manage this well and some will cream of the top off cheap imports. The results could be a little bit like “over-clocking” a home computer; your on-line gaming performs better, but the boost in performance results in riskier operating conditions.
As the battery is generally the cause of the heat (aided maybe by the processor) we would recommend charging either out of the camera or in the camera from a suitable wall usb charger rather than computer usb. And give it full cycles by letting it become fully discharged before giving it a full charge. Do not be tempted to give short boost charges just because it’s Li-ion. Those who had issues straight out of the box, finding that the battery life was poor until going through three or more full charge cycles will already understand this. Bear it in mind and maybe test it out yourself and noting any performance differences along the way.
We’ve not yet seen a heat-sink aluminium door on the market, and maybe this could be an option, but in the meantime just be kinder to your camera and set it up with a 120 second auto switch off setting…or you could ride faster to cool it down!
So What GoPro Camera Models Are Still Available?
If you’re puzzled by all the GoPro camera models on the market and can’t decide whether to go for the new GoPro 4 or get a bargain on previous models, here’s an older post covering some of those older models.
Well its looks smaller! But that’s only the case. So why pay the extra money for the 3+, especially if I’m just upgrading?
There are a few features that could be interesting:
- As if the “old” Black Edition wasn’t sharp enough, this one is claiming another 30% improvement, so for those of you that don’t need glasses or for those who wear extremely large glasses you’ll probably see the difference. For everyone between with consumer editing software, you may not be aware of the difference in the finished video.
- Improved battery life. Yes, we heard lots of stories about battery life that could tempt the wallet out, but to be honest we’re pretty happy with the 1 hr 30 offer by a well maintained battery at the moment.
- Increased WiFi range. Not an issue for a lot of Bikers and Boarders as the rider generally has the controls. The biggest issue for us would more likely be interference with the multitude of other WiFi equipment around us. We practically swim in the waves from all directions. This kind of thing is extremely environmental and something difficult to quantify.
Bottom line for us is…we wouldn’t update from a 3 Black to a 3+ black, but would certainly consider it if we were sporting a Silver or White, and your Christmas list had a hole in it. Or maybe scoop up an Original Black Edition at a bargain price whilst stocks last.
Mr GoPro, if you’re listening, we still think the original Black is capable of so much more, hence the 3+ and not the GoPro Hero 4. Please let us have a software upgrade and leave the “oh look! We simply must buy a new one” stuff to iPhone users. We might buy the smaller case though, that’s cute 😉
The GoPro HERO 3: Black Edition…
…is the top of the range GoPro camera model (whether you go + or not, it’s still Black, Silver, White). It is Wi-Fi enabled, and has a 12-mega-pixel image sensor with 2 x better low-light performance than the previous range. It has a 6-element wide angle aspherical lens and can support up to 4K resolution video. It can also capture 2.7K, 1440p, 1080p, 960p, 720p and 480p video up to an impressive 240 fps (depending on resolution) for high-speed action and impressive slow motion playback. The Black Edition includes the Wi-Fi Remote in the price.
It has a micro HDMI output, a microphone/composite video port, and a microSD card slot that supports up to 64GB cards. Other features include video looping, Protune capabilities, manual white balance, and time-lapse recording. Impressively it also supports continuous photo shooting and burst photography at up to 30 fps. Picture in video is a feature which lets you simultaneously record video while shooting photos at 5, 10, 30 and 60 second intervals. A GoPro app is now available which facilitates live video preview and remote camera control via a smartphone or tablet.
Still can’t decide? Lets move to some other GoPro camera models.
The GoPro HERO 3: Silver Edition…
…which replaces the HD HERO 2, is a Wi-Fi enabled action camera with an 11-mega-pixel image sensor and a wide angle aspherical lens. Like its predecessor, the HD HERO 2, it also comes with a waterproof housing that can protect the camera to a depth rating of 197’ (60 m). It also captures up to Full HD 1920 x 1080p video at 30 fps, and supports several other recording resolutions and frame rates. Compatible with the LCD Touch BacPac, the Battery BacPac and the Wi-Fi Remote, it shares most of it’s brothers pedigree. The video looping, Protune capabilities, manual white balance, and time-lapse recording are also there, whilst the burst shooting is down to 10 fps.
The Silver Edition has most things that your TV resolution can cope with at the moment so it remains an excellent buy, and colors are well contrasted. Low light and rapid changes in light have always been the culprit of sudden drops in image quality and the HERO 3 range shows in remarkable step up in handling this issue. It’s worth noting that the lens of the Silver Edition still remains a step below the specification of the Black Edition. Check out the video here to see the differences between the HERO 3 Black Edition and the older HD HERO 2, especially with low light inside the tunnel. There is also a short version of this video, plus Parts 2 and 3 of the descent that can be found on our YouTube Channel or on the Team Videos page. The HERO 3 footage undoubtedly gives better detail, noticed particularly when looking directly at surfaces like snow, but the color can look a little drained. In reality this is a none issue as it can be dealt with in post-production, however we’ve purposely not treated any of the footage here with post-production filters or changes in back-light so that you can see the raw difference.
The GoPro HERO 3: White Edition…
…an updated original HD HERO, has nothing on its spec to be embarrassed about and with a significant cost difference to its Silver and Black brothers, it can still deliver 1080 HD quality results. Smaller, lighter than the original and now equipped with the new lens to reduce distortion you’re getting a good all round deal if your budget won’t stretch further. If you become a demi-god when it comes to killer angles and awesome editing, the audience may be too involved with the video to notice differences in quality, and certainly for some web-based applications the resolution is sufficient.
If you want eat dry bread for a few months so you can save up enough to enjoy the top spec GoPro HERO 3: Black Edition, then dry bread it is.Otherwise, buying one of the other GoPro camera models is still a great option!
First Aid In The GoPro Clinic. Sometimes It’s Not The GoPro
A visit to the Doctors doesn’t always turn out the way you expected. Sometimes the cause has deeper roots and the Doc just can’t help. Maybe you should be looking elsewhere.
If you didn’t find what you were looking for with the Doctor, here’s some extra notes in the GoPro Clinic.
GoPro Clinic Lecture 1 : Cameras and 64GB cards
GoPro support exFAT formatted 64GB cards, but on the basis of “faff-ability” we prefer 32GB. This is a “not so new technical term” which has become a common reference used by a wide base of GoPro enthusiasts who are sick of “faffing about” with the camera when they would rather be doing their activity of choice. To be fair we don’t even know if we’re spelling it correctly as local dialects often produce a “K” placed centrally in the pronunciation.
Based on a straw poll of the number of people with the back of their cameras open and a 64GB card in one hand, and seconded by the fact that we’ve heard very little about issues with 32GB cards, but a lot of whining from people with 64GB cards, we’d hedge on the side of caution.
It could all be a bit nano-technology voodoo magic, but if you know the A and E is already full why go looking for an accident. Get a 32GB and you have less to lose…especially footage.
GoPro Clinic Lecture 2 : Computers and 64GB cards
GoPro formats 64GB cards in exFAT, and they will be aware of any technical issues that presents. Software updates will deal with it . That said, there are other compatibility issues with computer OS systems that are not GoPro issues, so read on…
- If you are still running Windows XP
make sure that you have this update: OUCH! Microsoft have now withdrawn support…Do you still have black and white Television, too?
- Windows Vista needs Service Pack 1, and Windows 7 and 8 should run without issue.
- If you have a mac be aware that OS versions below Mac OS 10.6.5, OS X Snow Leopard won’t recognize an exFAT format.
- If you use anything else, you’d have been better spending money on a computer rather than a GoPro. Make a POV video of yourself working out the family budget and post it on YouTube; ask viewers to comment on whether or not there are any other blatantly gaping holes in your strategic family spending!
Symptoms Related to GoPro SD Card Problems No.1
- You only set the camera running three times, but my card has an excessive amount of files to download.
Doctors Pep Talk:
This is a common concern for many. They have hit the record button only once, but when they come to the download they can’t understand why they have so many files. Obviously this can raise several questions:
- Is the camera stopping and starting to record on its own?
- Did you download or delete the previous batch of video?
Don’t sweat; what you’re seeing is normal operation of the camera as it controls it’s filing system.
Most Successful Actions.
Caused by the formatting of the SD card, this is no cause for concern. Cards are formatted in FAT32 (exFAT for 64GB) and have a maximum file size of 4GB. At this point the data file will be terminated and new file will begin. If it bugs you and you’re worried that you might miss some of the action, try to be more proactive whilst filming. Consciously switch the camera off and back on again if you’re just hanging around to ensure that when something worthwhile is happening the GoPro is unlikely the being swapping to a new file. Be aware that each setting has different data amounts so the time-span to reach the 4GB max will be different on each setting and the Protune will reduce this time if it’s ON.
We recommend firstly formatting the card in the camera and take a quick photo to ensure that it worked. It’s not a big issue and takes only a few seconds. Download your files after every outing especially if you use a 64GB (which we don’t always recommend – see After Hours Clinic); you don’t wait for the drought before you start trying to collect water. At some point every form of data storage will fail, so get into good habits.
Symptoms Related to GoPro SD Card Problems No.2
- Camera keeps switching off.
- Sometimes it’s after 10 or 20 secs, sometimes it’s a matter of minutes.
Doctors Pep Talk:
Not unknown on previous versions, and can be as random as the Paris Metro.
Most Successful Actions.
- If your Protune is ON, switch it OFF.
- If you using one of the higher HD formats bring it down a notch onto a lower resolution setting.
You need to reduce the data rate. If the card can’t write as quick as the camera is capturing it will flag “Game Over” and recording will stop. Protune can be the main offender here, but if you reduce the capture area of the camera that often does the trick. It’s up to you to decide as you experiment with the editing; what’s working better for you less HD and Protune, or higher HD without Protune. It’s most likely that your choice of editing software will help you decide, as there’s no using recording with Protune if your editing suite isn’t capable of processing the extra information
GoPro seem to be addressing this issue, with newer updates placing more control over the data rate functions.
Symptoms Related to GoPro SD Card Problems No.3
- GoPro doesn’t recognize my SD card.
- “no sd” when I switch the camera on.
Most Successful Actions.
- Remove the battery, count to ten and put it back in.
- If the Sd Card still doesn’t show check the software level. This should now flash up when you switch on.
- If it’s up to date, read on.
If the card was originally formatted in another piece of hardware before you’ve decided to drop it in your GoPro, or it arrived pre-formatted from the seller, that could be the root of your problems. If you haven’t already ran the card in your computer, do so. Right-click in explorer and then format in FAT. Choose the FAT option that corresponds to your card. If your computer doesn’t see the card, the possibilities are the following:
- You do have a problem card.
- The card is formatted in FAT, FAT32 or exFAT and the camera has an issue.
- You may want to read the After Hours TAB if your computer is getting “old”
Symptoms Related to GoPro SD Card Problems No.4
- Computer doesn’t recognize my SD card.
Most Successful Actions.
Check out the After-Hours Clinic for Computer Surgery.
If you have a 64GB card, it will be exFAT formatted in the GoPro. If your computer does not see it you may have a compatibility issue on the computer side which will give you later editing problems; both PC and mac users should be aware that older OS versions won’t recognize an exFAT format on a 64GB.
Adobe Premiere Elements Version Tested: 11
Versions Available: 11, 12, 13
Before we talk about the qualities of Version 11 of Adobe Premiere Elements, we’ll let you know that there is no 4k or 3D support in this product. We don’t think this should put you off as many computers can’t hack 4K either when it comes to processing the raw video, so unless 4k at 15fps gets you uncontrollably excited this may not be a big issue for the next few years.
Adobe Premiere Elements Version 11 appears to have upped it’s game after bumping along for a while. More attention has been paid to what Adobe may have been considering a lower priority to it’s big brother, Premiere Pro. The somewhat unresponsive interface of previous versions now sees excellent preview quality giving smoother playbacks, which improves the whole user experience. Unless you start getting heavy on the overlays you should be happy with the speed of the workflow.
Interface and Workflow
With a cleaner all-round look than previous versions of Adobe Premiere Elements, the access to major functions such as transitions, effects, and color-correction filters is straight forward. That said, dealing with some of the parameters once inside can be more difficult to get a handle on. Some of the default behaviors could have been better thought out, like the dissolve when overlapping clips which seems to cut frames. Maybe altering the set-up preferences will sort this out, but nevertheless a dissolve is still a staple operation.
The fact that this filters down from a larger set of tools (Creative Cloud) is evident when looking at the integration with it’s brother Photoshop Elements. If you are looking to advance, or already have, this has a creative advantage over some of the other suites. It could also be good training for jumping the fence into the professional suites like the Creative Cloud itself, so challenging yourself a little to get to grips with it may well pay off.
the Film Looks library will appeal to those wanting to get that real film feeling from compiled effects giving cinema like colors, without all the hassle of figuring it out for themselves. Working in either Quick or Expert will
We would recommend Premiere Elements for anybody looking to progress whilst still having the option of throwing something out quickly when required.
On the whole this product performs as it should. It doesn’t make the presumptuous claim of ‘Pro’ as some of the competitors do, and leaves this job to it stable-mate Premiere Pro. This means that it’s performance is well and truly within the Consumer market standards and the amateur user has more that enough to go at. The Instant Movie feature may automatically remove the dross from some one your less watchable GoPro footage which could be a bonus for those not wanting to scrub through ten hours of film looking for the best bits.
- Affordable platform with some of it’s big brothers benefits.
- Cleaned up interface.
- Good Multi-layering, especially with stills, offers progressive tool.
- No 4k support.
- Snapping and overlapping clips seems…different.
Quick Guide To Grasp The Basics Of Video Editing Workflow
There are many options out there when it comes to editing suites, and we’ve reviewed some of the better known ones. The market generally renews itself at the same pace as Moore’s Law so newer versions of products are constantly coming into the stores.
Buy a suite that fits the specification of your computer. Getting software that’s badly suited to ageing hardware will frustrate you, as certain CPU functions that claim to speed up the process are actually only compatible with newer CPU’s. So if you can’t afford to update your hardware buy an older version of the software you want, and make shorter videos with less layers.
Direct MP4 compatibility will save you time and a whole lot of drive space when it comes to importing, so it’s money well spent. Buy software without it and if you’re a compulsive GoPro user you may rapidly find you also need to buy a new hard drive to find room for converting files.
If you’re a web nut the latest batch of offerings are giving html 5 coding which will produce code for you to embed in you own site. The average user will have zero use for this, as good as it sounds on the packaging.
If you’re a newbie to editing buy software with ‘in your face’ icons. Efficient editing is all about knowing what you can use and where to find it. The cheaper entry level suites accomplish this by placing the most needed functions on big icons that remain in view on the work-flow interface. This can save lots of time because you instantly know where it is and what it does.
Output formats are not really an issue these days as most standards are supported by most editing suites.
Pay special attention if you have a Mac as some suites are not compatible.
Video Editing Workflow: In More Depth
Choosing software that’s right you is often about feeling comfortable with the look and feel of the user interface. Finding something that you can work efficiently with in terms of the interface can be much to do with personal preference. You may be spending many hours at a time staring at the screen so the quicker and easier it is for you to find your way around the better it’s going to be.
Trying out different versions at the local store is the best option, otherwise trial versions or a friend’s software could be a way of finding your comfort zone. There’s no real right or wrong as everybody has individual tastes and customising screen layout to suit the way you work may be a trial and error process. As a general rule, ease of use is top of the list, so you should be looking for icon sets to you identify with rapidly and the ability to make and edit in no more than two clicks. Don’t settle for anything were a basic task may take several menus or clicks.
Capture and Playback
As discussed in the Video Basics article about MP4 having an editing software that matches the format is a huge bonus. If you have other camera equipment, don’t forget to take them into consideration and make sure that it matches all your needs.
Editing systems generally have two main approaches in terms of screen layout – either timeline or storyboard. A preference for one or other of these approaches will obviously influence your decision, but most systems now give you the opportunity to change rapidly between both. Storyboard is a simplified ‘comic-strip’ consisting of icons or thumbnails that you drag-and-drop around the screen to alter the sequence of events.
Timeline is a more specific view showing a linear representation of the project. Tracks may have individual colors to allow your eye to pick out different types of events more rapidly, and multiple tracks for both audio and video, as well as titling, running vertically down screen. The basic commands like cutting and pasting are relatively standard, but the more specific editing tasks (such as trimming and audio matching) are really the features that begin to separate the entry-level systems from more expensive ones. The quality when it comes to correcting poor lighting, matching video of different quality, changing aspect ratios, are other types of features you would expect to see with the increasing price level.
If you’re new to the game then a library of built-in effects, both video and audio, will be a bonus, whereas being given the choice to create, customize, and save one’s own effects would certainly be more interesting to an intermediate or someone who feels they are beginning to outgrow the simplified system that they have been using. Cleaning audio inside the editing suite without the need for separate software can be a huge bonus. Audio can be a big issue that can really make or break your video as a finished film is about the whole package and not just the visual side.
Software has progressed well to work hand-in-hand with today’s CPUs and handle the kind of render intensive tasks that we used have to put up with. We now have faster processors, more of them, and programs that are capable of background rendering to make use of this extra power. But whilst hardware and software manufacturers were hard at work so were the camera manufacturers, and now we have to deal with huge, sometimes uncompressed, HD video. So speed can often still remain an issue. On top of that the video quality and the intensity of the other tasks that you’re putting on it may also weigh heavily. Put simply the more post-production you have to do, be it by choice to improve the video quality, or by function to apply effects, titles, overlays, etc, the more pressure you’re going to put on the system and especially the CPU. Matching a software works well, or has been designed for, the CPU that you have will be a bonus. If you’re somebody who likes straight POV with no-frills you’re in for an easier time than somebody who likes to lay on the special effects.
Output or Export
Once you’ve finish playing and you’ve added, removed, and tweaked everything you can think of, it’s time to get it out of your computer and into a format that suits the viewing public. If YouTube is your thing then many of today’s programs offer a direct export, and hence an automatically chosen format. If that’s not the case then possible formats such as Flash video, MPEG, WMV, or MOV (for QuickTime) are all popular export formats offered by most good editing programs.
If it’s going onto discs then MPEG 2, or Blu-ray for the forward thinking among you, is crucial. Most programs have DVD authoring tools built-in, whilst some people prefer dedicated DVD authoring programs.
No software is complete without the ability of the user to create his heart’s desire and so technical support whether it be in the form of documentation, video tutorials, or online forums is a requirement whatever your competence level. Built-in links to help tools are useful, but don’t forget to look up specific user groups online for individual programs.
So what’s best?
What’s best for you is not necessarily best for someone else. We’ll bring you more reviews to help you out, but always go for something you feel comfortable with, preferably having already tried it to assess your own ability, and that is also well matched to your hardware.